On 22 May, our friends Annegret and Andreas come on board in Poros. The four of us are now sailing together for ten days – a lovely change of pace. Short legs and mostly good sailing winds make the ten days a relaxed and varied time. Only the first day is wet and a bit rough. We sail round the island of Poros in heavy rain and strong winds with a swell. But then it clears up and we have a peaceful night at anchor in Ormos Soupia, a little way south-west of Poros.
Next destination: the uninhabited little island of Dokos. On the north side there is a large, well-sheltered bay, which is actually marked as a restricted area on the nautical chart. When we arrive, there are several large motor yachts moored there. Well, then we can anchor there too. In the evening, after the large yachts have packed away their ‘water toys’, it becomes quiet. The wind dies down, the water’s surface becomes smooth, and we go for a swim from the boat for the first time this year. The water is still quite cold, but crystal clear.
The next day, a lovely easterly wind takes us to Ermioni. Annegret, a novice at the helm, manages 6.6 knots with just the headsail and mizzen. From then on, we have another capable helmswoman on board. But Andreas also takes the helm time and again over the next few days and keeps us on course. There’s plenty going on in Ermioni. On the north side, the few berths in the harbour are taken. A marina is being built in the bay. It’s said to have 300 berths. We tie up at the south pier. We’re already familiar with it. We were here for the first time in 2020, our first year with Aglaya.
After a lovely walk through the pine forest on the peninsula, we set off the next day – again with a lovely sailing breeze – on to Porto Heli. We could easily drop anchor in the large bay, but we fancy a bit of luxury and a hot shower. That’s why we’d booked into the marina. Porto Heli is a nice place, but the marina is a bit dull. So we’re looking forward to our next anchorage.
In the very well-sheltered bay of Kilada, we moor right in front of the prehistoric Franchthi Cave. People lived here as far back as 20,000 BC. Back then, the sea level was significantly lower and people kept livestock here. Now the cave lies right by the sea. Of course we take a trip there in the dinghy. Our new dinghy is actually only suitable for two people. With three of us on board – and with the wind and waves – the trip turned out to be a wet and rather adventurous affair. In the evening and at night, the cave is lit up, a magnificent sight. We like our anchorage so much that we decide to stay another day, swimming, reading, admiring the beautiful landscape around us and, of course, the starry sky at night. Right at the back of the bay, by the way, is the large Basimakopoulos boatyard. That is where Aglaya spent the winter of 2022/2023 on land.
A strong southerly wind and squalls drive us to Astros on the opposite side of the Argolic Gulf the next day. Strong crosswinds and a high swell make it impossible for us to moor in the small harbour with the bow anchor and stern to the pier. Reversing straight in is out of the question. So we moor alongside the pier in a somewhat precarious spot. With the help of other sailors, we manage to secure ourselves quite well after all. And as is usually the case, things calm down again in the evening and we can go for a relaxed meal at the best taverna in Astros.
From the Franconian castle ruins towering above Astros, there is a sweeping view across the gulf and you can even see as far as Nafplion. That is our next destination. Unfortunately, due to a lack of wind, we have to motor the ten nautical miles. As compensation, we can see flying fish leaping above the mirror-smooth water’s surface. In the harbour of Nafplion, we are greeted by two friendly men in orange vests. They assign us a berth and take our giant white ropes. With the wind coming from diagonally behind, the reverse manoeuvre to the pier goes smoothly.
We are now moored directly below the Venetian fortress of Palamidi. A stunning backdrop. Annegret and Andreas are spending their last night on board. We said our goodbyes to them today. They are now on their way to Athens by bus. We had a lovely, varied and relaxing time together.
