On our way north we pass the Petalian Gulf, between Attica and the island of Euboea, and then the southern Euboean Gulf. At its northern end comes an area somewhat difficult to navigate, with many flats and few navigation marks until we are in the southern harbour (a large bay) of Chalkis. The equalisation of water levels between the southern and northern parts of the strait leads to chaotic currents and whirlpools, the laws of which even the city's greatest son, Aristotle, could not figure out. We know that we have to wait in front of the strait in the south, pay the 35€ for passage and then wait again, at anchor, because the bridge over which the main route from Attica to Euboea passes only opens at night between two and three o'clock. The harbour master decides whether the current and wind allow passage. We are supposed to be on standby (with four other boats) from 9pm.
Even the approach to the office in the afternoon is a challenge: loud whirlpools around the boat, the current constantly pushing the bow to the left and right, a real cranking at the wheel. Then we lay at anchor and wait. We are to be informed via channel 12. Greek conversation between cargo ships and timid English enquiries with a French accent as to when we could set off did not really create the right mood.
Until shortly before two o'clock we get the message that we should get ready. So anchor light off, position lights on, start the engine, pull up the anchor. And wait in slow big circles in front of the bridge. We must have come a bit close: "Aglaya, Aglaya, stay in your position, there is enough time" we hear on channel 12.
Finally it starts, at half past two: the two halves of the bridge push into the bridgeheads, we pass through with other boats - no wind, no current. "What a nice boat" the bridge keeper calls out to us. The guidebook says the strait is 40 metres wide, but we are sure it is no more than 25.
Behind the bridge into the pitch-dark northern harbour, after a pair of red-green illuminated buoys, everything is just black. A few lights and the electronic sea chart from Navionics help us to find a large, shallow anchorage. At four o'clock we have an anchor beer and then sleep in the saloon for anchor watch.
