As we sail into the entrance to the Pagasitic Gulf (Gulf of Volos), we can already see Volos from a distance of 20 nautical miles. Volos is a modern commercial, industrial and university town. Large parts of it were destroyed by an earthquake in 1955 and then rebuilt in a chequerboard pattern. The whole scenery as you sail through the gulf is spectacular, as the city lies at the foot of the high Pilion Mountains, on whose slopes the villages cling like swallows' nests. We can moor for a few days in the city harbour at Sail Aegean. This is only possible from Monday to Friday lunchtime, as the charter boats are there at the weekend.
According to legend, Volos is the city of the Argonauts, who set sail from here on their ship Argo to the Black Sea to steal the Golden Fleece. The city is proud of its heroes. A stylised sculpture of the Argo stands on the harbour promenade and an Argo museum is being planned. In the quaint fishermen's quarter, the only one to have been spared by the earthquake, there are many small tspouradikos, where delicious mezedes (mostly fish and seafood) are served with every glass of tsiporou.
Of course we explore the city. We take the bus to Pelion for a day and visit Makrinitsa, the ‘model village’ above Volos. Although it is grey and cool, the view down to the town and the gulf is magnificent. We wander around on old donkey tracks paved with stones and admire the beautiful multi-storey houses.
We have to leave again on Friday morning, as the charter boats are now arriving. With a bit of rain and a strong wind from the mountain (gusts of around 40 knots), we sail south again with just the mizzen (our smallest sail) at speeds of up to seven knots to the exit of the gulf.
We had registered with Kostas in the small harbour of Agias Kyriaki. He took our lines in front of his taverna so that we could almost jump from the boat to the table for dinner. Instead of a mooring fee, you go out to eat. Apart from the fact that Kostas is one of the nicest and most helpful person, we've ever met, the fish soup and seafood risotto were simply delicious. So, this stop was a highlight!
The next day, we climbed up to the village of Trikeri on a stone-paved path. A beautiful path through lots of greenery and with great views of the gulf and across to Euboea.
We have now left the gulf and found another beautiful spot, the harbour of Plataniá on the south-eastern side of the Pelion peninsula. There are lots of fishermen and a few sailing boats here. We meet one of them, a couple from Slovenia, for the third time.The season hasn't really started yet, it's quiet. And when we went for a swim on the beautiful sandy beach this morning, we have it all to ourselves. Tomorrow we want to stay and do a circular walk, which we have a detailed description of.
