The gulf is bordered by Cape Tenaro to the west and Cape Maleas to the east, both notorious for extremely strong winds. Two years ago we passed both capes - in calm conditions. This time the weather is unsettled and it is very windy.
We set off in the morning from the anchorage at Porto Kagio near Tenaro with calm winds, but hazy fog. After a short time it bristles up and the wind settles at 30 knots (equivalent to 6-7 gusts, much more in gusts). Accordingly, a strong swell builds up, because in the southwest, where the wind comes from, there is open sea. We are glad to have such a stable boat with a long keel, which dives very smoothly into the increasingly high waves. And we are happy to have a ketch, we sail only with mizzen and boom jib, little sail area but very comfortable and with little leaning in such strong wind. And because of the shape of the hull, we stay completely dry even in high sideways waves, wonderful.
Video: Wilde Ride
In five hours of riding we want to anchor in Palaiokastro, a sheltered little harbour just off Cape Maleas - the Coast Guard is chasing us away. A big ship was coming and would take up all the space. All further attempts are of no help - until we suddenly see the big car ferry that actually docks here. Because of bad weather in Neapoli, we learn later. So we set off again for Neapoli, where two attempts to moor fail due to strong crosswinds. The friendly man from the Coast Guard there recommends the bay of Levki on the opposite island of Elafonisos. 3 miles. So we set off again, exhausted, the sun is slowly setting - and we can't find the bay. We anchored further north and spent another night on anchor watch, alternating with very little sleep.
In the morning it is warm, the sun is shining, a wonderful day, we sail around Cape Maleas to Monemvasia - wonderful!
