Category: Uncategorized

Finally we are ready to sail on 3 April. But we wait for one more day, as there is still a strong southerly wind. It is a day for us to relax, after several weeks of getting the boat fit. We walk up to the ruins of the fortress, which we visited two years ago in August. Back then, nature was brown and dry. Now everything is green and in bloom everywhere. A beautiful place for breakfast with a view over the city. In the evening, we have the delicious fish soup at the Taverna Argos as a farewell.

Then, on 4 April, we finally set off. We leave Kalamata and sail south in light winds. So we can set mainsail, genoa and mizzen right away. Our progress is very slow as the wind gradually dies completely. So unfortunately we have to motor the last few miles to the bay of Limeni - our intended anchorage. As it happens, the wind comes up just before the bay with gusts of over 40 knots. It hardly lets up at our anchorage in front of the supposedly excellent fish restaurant in Karavostasi and blows almost constantly at around 35 knots all night and also the next day, fortunately offshore from the east. So at least we have no swell. But we don't try the fish in the restaurant, we prefer to stay on board.
We don't want to sail around Cape Tenaro in what is sure to be a much stronger wind from the front. Therefore, we stay another day in this beautiful bay and hope that the wind will weaken.

And so it does. The next day we take a look at the imposing mountains near Gerolimenias from the boat, are fascinated by the wild peninsula of Mani with its villages consisting of residential towers, as we were two years ago, and then sail around Cape Tenaro, the southernmost point of mainland Europe, without any stress. In our anchorage, Porto Kagio, we are the only boat (quite different from two years ago in August). There is quite a lot of wind overnight, from the mountains from different directions. So anchor watch again. But the anchor holds well in the silt and sand in front of the village.

Video: Anchoring alone at Porto Kagio

After the fat motor yacht that had parked us up was ready and could enter the water, the way was free for Aglaya. The low water level in the pool of the travel lift due to the constant north wind was just enough for Aglaya's draft. And after a strong wind from the west the day before, today it was calm and Lady Aglaya could enter the water. Takis, who operates the travel lift, managed everything perfectly and the dismantling and subsequent reassembly of the two forestays by Mikis, the sailmaker, went off without a hitch. Greek precision work. The new seacocks installed during the winter are all tight, and the engine and shaft work perfectly after the repairs and corrections. So we sneak off to a quiet water berth and enjoy the relaxing walk to the water. Aglaya rocks again. We rock with her.

The to-do list for Aglaya over the winter and in March was long - not least because our boat was on land. This meant that a lot of work could be done that is not possible to do in the water. Aglaya is an old lady. Therefore, we decided to give her a refit with anti-osmosis treatment for the underwater hull. 

While we were in Germany during the winter, we had reliable craftsmen here in Kalamata who did the necessary work:

- Sandblasting
- Sanding and repairing damaged areas
- Osmosis protection
- Applying primer and two coats of epoxy
- Two coats of antifouling

In addition, three seacocks were replaced in the two bathrooms and the drains were cleaned.

This all went well. We kept up with the progress of the work by photos they sent us during our "winter break" at home.

When we were back at the boat on the 11th of March, the work continued - and more than we had expected. The propeller was removed, grinded and polished. During re-installation, a ring for cutting lines was also included. Hopefully it won't be needed! The anodes on the rudder and shaft were renewed, also those at the water collector of the exhaust.

Of course there was also the usual maintenance work. We cleaned the GFK on the hull and deck, treated it with a light abrasive and wax and then polished it. And of course, all the metal on deck had to be cleaned of dirt and rust and polished again. This maintenance work is not only to improve the appearance (Aglaya should of course shine at the beginning of the new season), but above all for protection from salty air and salt water. The teak deck will be maintained when the boat is in the water.

Grinding and Polishing: Video

And then there was the matter of the clearly too much water in the bilge in the engine room. Where did that come from? At the end of the season last year we couldn't find out. So now the stuffing box has been removed, a nice gland with a lot of corrosion. Our trusted mechanic cleaned it and replaced the packing inside. When we reassembled it, it turned out that the motor was two centimetres too low, pushing the shaft up. So that's why it was running so hard. We had already noticed that. But how did that come about? We don't know. The mechanic had an exhausting job: Without further ado, he put the engine two centimetres higher. Another thing we couldn't have done ourselves. Now the propeller turns easily.

Compared to such hard work, the replacement of the water tap in the pantry and a new durable coat of paint on the wooden surfaces at the stern were easy.

And for safety, a new liferaft and a lifesling are coming on board. This required minor modifications to the railing.

Hopefully we will soon be back in the water (we are still parked at the moment). Once the stays, which have to be partially removed for the travel lift, are properly tightened again, we can finally hoist the sails.

On Wednesdays and Saturdays there is market in Kalamata. It is very big and great: fruit, vegetables, herbs, honey, lots of fish and of course the delicious Kalamata olives … here you can find everything your heart desires. We couldn't get enough of it. Here are a few impressions.

The big high over Russia, Lithuania and Belarus has been bringing a strong, cold wind to the Black Sea for days. From there, it blows from the northeast into the Aegean Sea and further west through almost the entire Mediterranean Sea. Over the partly still snow-covered mountains of the Peloponnes it rushes violently and icy cold down to Kalamata. Today, Sunday, we escape by bus to Koroni in the hope of some warmth. Two years ago, we spent a warm summer night at anchor off Koroni.

Koroni is about 50 km south of Kalamata on the west side of the Messenian Gulf. The remains of the Venetian fortress can be seen from afar. If you climb up, you have a great view over the entire Messinian Gulf, to Kalamata, to the high mountains of the Taygetos and to Cap Tenaro. We have already climbed several Venetian fortresses in recent years. But never before have we visited one where there are so many "normal" dwellings within the fortress walls. You can even visit a nunnery inside. Early in the year it is tranquil and cosy here in Koroni. In summer it is certainly quite different. The beautiful sandy beaches attract many summer holidaymakers. We enjoy the warmth and peace.

Here in Kalamata, the sailing season has not yet started. Many boats are standing on land - as is Aglaya. We couldn't even get out into the water yet, because we are parked between between other boats. Fortunately, our stern is pointing towards the harbour. So at least we have a nice view and can watch the sun go down, if it shows itself. We shouldn't leave our "parking space" right away. Two layers of antifouling are still missing on the underwater hull. And apart from that, there is still a lot of maintenance, renovation and care work to be done on land. Our crane appointment is on 28 March.

10 March 2022: We are on the way to our boat. Flight to Athens and then by bus to Kalamata. Greece! We think of sun and warmth. But the weatherfrogs have already clearly prepared us for the fact that it is currently colder in Greece than at home in Germany. They were right: Athens welcomes us with driving snow at two degrees plus. Well, Kalamata is quite a bit further south. Let's have a look. We take the bus across the whole Peloponnese and what do we see: snow-covered mountains. Why didn't we take our touring skis with us? Instead, our luggage contains cleaning and care products for the boat, a grinding and polishing machine … nothing for winter sports. We are planning for the long term and the goal is to start a beautiful sailing season with a well-maintained and cared-for boat.

But also in Kalamata: six degrees during the day and sometimes just below zero at night. That is not cosy and certainly not the true Greek feeling! We are counting on spring to come and then with power.