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Into the Ambracian Gulf, to Preveza and further south

The exit from the port of Lygia worked well, we passed smoothly through the rocks. Along the mainland coast we headed south for 15 miles until we entered the narrow buoyed fairway to Preveza, once again without wind, motoring along endless sandy beaches, past Mytikas with its impossibly tiny fishing harbour. Past Preveza with its three huge marinas, where about 2000 boats are moored, in the water and on land, the centre of the charter bases in the Ionian Sea. 

In Preveza we headed east into the Ambracian Gulf, a shallow water area with a great abundance of fish, also a migration area for countless birds on their way south - or north. Along the re-buoyed fairway between fish farms into the bay of Vonitsa, a beautiful little town that we had already explored by car. Two bays before Vonitsa we dropped anchor - idyllic with woods all the way to the shore, a single boat except for us, everything completely quiet - post-season. The little wind also fell asleep, so we were able to spend a cosy evening and a quiet night.

The next day we went back to Preveza, where we lay well on the second anchor attempt, at the city pier directly in front of the National Bank. Here Claudia had to disembark, as her plane for home was going from Preveza-Aktio airport, just a few kilometres away. It was a nice time with her! And we had to buy a new tender. We nearly got drowned, when we used the old one last time.

Pictures of Preveza

We liked Preveza so much, with its winding alleys and friendly, relaxed atmosphere, that we stayed for 5 days. We hiked to the Pantokrator Fortress of Ali Pasha, one of the lost places, a bit scary, but impressive with its thick walls and partly dilapidated walls and archways. 

Pictures of Pantokrator-Castle

And then: Nicopolis. A gigantic city, the largest in the ancient world with 300,000 inhabitants. Founded by Octavian, later Augustus, on the occasion of the victory in the naval battle over Mark Antony and Cleopatra in 31 BC, which took place in Aktio. A huge city wall, excavations still in work everywhere, quite wonderful mosaics, a stylishly restored odeon in the shape of an amphitheatre and a large theatre (though not accessible). The small farming village of Nikopolis is situated above. We found a taverna, actually a green meadow with a few chairs and noisy men having coffee and tsiporou. With hands and feet we managed to order a Greek salad, beer and lemonade and later a taxi back to Preveza.

Pictures of Nicopolis

We liked Preveza very much, we will come back next year, and not only because of the excellent sykoti (liver) in the Mythos taverna directly at the pier. 

Then we set course south. We leave Preveza and sail through the buoyed fairway, setting course for the entrance to the fairway between Lefkas and the mainland. Here we meet the sailing yacht "Orca" on the way. We already know the Austrian couple on board from Messolonghi. Just in time for the opening of the bridge we are in front of the entrance, hoist the sails and go through the bridge. A short detour into the public harbour of Lefakada shows us: more new floating pontoons for charter boats, everything very narrow and crowded. Actually, we wanted to make a stop here. But we prefer to sail south through the channel and anchor in front of the small fishing port of Ligià directly after leaving the waterway. It is quiet here and we can enjoy the beautiful evening atmosphere.

In the meantime, we are back on the Greek mainland in the small harbour of Palairos, which is cosy in the off-season. We want to stay here for a while.

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