Author: Gisela Wuerfel

Last summer, the big fires on the island of Euboea were also in the news in Germany. Large areas of beautiful vegetation fell victim to the flames and many people had to fear for their homes.

Now we have arrived at the south coast and moor in the harbour of Karystos - a place at the foot of the Ochi mountains. Only a few sailingboats are moored in the harbour, but fishing and fish farming are obviously very important here. Hardly any tourists, only Greeks, many small shops for everyday needs. Everything is relaxed and cosy. A place to stay. Here we recover from our devil's ride against the north wind. Freshly caught dorado for dinner, talking to the few neighbours on the other boats, just taking it easy until the strong north wind stops.

But then we continue north, along the west coast of Euboea in the Petalian Gulf. It's a good thing we discovered it: Ormos Boúfalo (Buffalo Bay). There's an ancient story about the name of this beautiful little anchorage, but that's going too far here. Some sailboats are already anchored when we arrive, but we find a place right next to the sandbank that juts into the bay. We have the feeling that we are lying in a small fjord. An idyll and a quiet night.

There has been a fierce north wind here for weeks. And we want to go north. After spending three nights on the beautiful island of Kea (see photo gallery).

We wanted to venture north to Karistos, on the southern side of the island of Euboea. We know that we have an extremely seaworthy boat with a powerful engine.

So anchor up and cast off in Voukari Bay/Kea. We have a date with friends on the island of Skiathos. It is hazy, no sun, a few raindrops.

As we leave the bay, we are met by a fierce north (much stronger than the wind apps had predicted), permanently 30, later up to 49 kn, i.e. about 8-9 Beaufort. And due to the long-lasting north wind, a high swell with cross seas has formed, which runs directly towards us. 

That means: riding a roller coaster. The bowsprit rises up to an estimated three and a half metres out of the water, only to dive deep again, so deep that the luff of the foresail gets wet. 

Video: Salty Shower

We are glad to have such a seaworthy boat, because the spray when the boat dives tends to fly outwards due to the shape of the hull. Except for a few very high waves, when water comes over and we get showered. With salt water. 

And the closer we get to the harbour, the stronger the wind gets, permanently 45 knots now. The boat normally makes 4.8-5 knots at 1,500 rpm, which is quite good - but every time it dips into a wave trough, it slows down very hard. 

So we need seven hours for the 20 miles. And after this wild ride, the anchor drops in the harbour of Karisto - in sunshine and sudden calm.........

We have left the Peloponnese behind us: The Messenian, the Laconic, the Argolic, the Saronic Gulf. Then, after a night at anchor directly in front of one of the most prominent points in Greece, Cape Sounion on the southwest corner of Attica, we head into the Aegean. With an unfavourable north-northeast wind, we can still sail for the first two hours, but then we have to motor because the wind - once again - comes from the front and pushes us too far south. So the last eight miles under motor with a heavy rollercoaster swell. 

Then we are on the island of Kea, in the north-western bay of Livadi, with strong winds and swell. But we are well moored, with bow anchor and stern line, the pier is high, it is comfortable to get out and have a beer directly opposite in Café Captain Louis - after a long difficult anchor manoeuvre. 

Ferries also dock here - but it's not very touristy and the tourists and visitors seem to be locals, very pleasant. 

When the wind will stop coming from the north, we head north between Euboea and Attica, towards the Sporades. 

Under sails all day in light winds. This is how Walter sails into the Seventies on his round birthday. It couldn't be more beautiful. From Ermioni to Poros. Here we have champagne in the cockpit and a delicious meal at Taverna Karovolos. Lamb kleftiko, hmm …

Ermioni (east side Peloponnese) yesterday. First we are almost alone for a day at the pier on the south side of the headland. But towards yesterday evening we feel like we are in another world: one catamaran after another circles in front of the pier looking for a place. The big marinas of Athens are not that far away and flotillas are obviously not only on the way in high summer.

Rain the next day. Nevertheless, everyone is gone and the next invasion comes in the evening.

We already knew that Leonard Cohen lived in Greece for a while - now we know exactly where. One of the most beautiful Greek islands is Hydra in the Saronic Gulf. It may be barren and not very fertile, but the inhabitants have managed to keep mass tourism away. The houses climb picturesquely up the hill from the harbour, the main town and the harbour look like a high amphitheatre.

In 1960, Leonard Cohen bought a house in Kamini, a small village next to the main town, and lived there until 1970, there he fell in love with his muse, the Norwegian Marianne. World hits like "Suzanne", "Stranger Song" and, of course, "So long, Marianne" probably originated here. His favourite pub in town was the Douskus, for whose landlord he even wrote his own song.

The island is pristine, of course there are many tourists, but there are no cars, only mules for transport - and that's how the inhabitants want it to stay. 

Coming from Porto Heli, we briefly put our bow into the small harbour of Hydra. It is supposed to be very crowded most of the time. When we arrive, there are already two rows of boats nested inside each other. Anchor salad is inevitable when we cast off. We sail one nautical mile further and anchor in the quiet bay of Mandraki. From here, the next day, we take a beautiful panoramic path to the main town and also to Leonard Cohen's favourite places.

We say "So long, Marianne!" 

On Greek Orthodox Easter Monday, Tillmann and Claudia came on board for a short visit. Tillmann sings in the Heidelberg Jazz Choir, in which Gisela still likes to sing when she is at home in Heidelberg.

Actually, we wanted to take them out for a day of sailing. No wind. So we make a shore excursion to Kilada and walk along a very beautiful footpath to the Franchthí Cave, one of the most important prehistoric sites in Greece. It was continuously inhabited from 10,000 BC until the Neolithic period 6000 to 1800 BC. It is impressive how large the cave is. 

We make another small detour to Kilada, see the two shipyards and the many boats standing on land. We had already heard from other sailors that this is a good and safe winter parking place for boats. In any case, Kilada is a beautiful and very well protected natural harbour where it is easy to anchor.

After a delicious Mythos on tap, Tillmann and Claudia drive us back to Porto Heli. Thank you very much for the nice visit and the beautiful excursion! Ciao until the next choir rehearsal during the winter break!