Sailing Aglaya

There has been a fierce north wind here for weeks. And we want to go north. After spending three nights on the beautiful island of Kea (see photo gallery).

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We wanted to venture north to Karistos, on the southern side of the island of Euboea. We know that we have an extremely seaworthy boat with a powerful engine.

So anchor up and cast off in Voukari Bay/Kea. We have a date with friends on the island of Skiathos. It is hazy, no sun, a few raindrops.

As we leave the bay, we are met by a fierce north (much stronger than the wind apps had predicted), permanently 30, later up to 49 kn, i.e. about 8-9 Beaufort. And due to the long-lasting north wind, a high swell with cross seas has formed, which runs directly towards us. 

That means: riding a roller coaster. The bowsprit rises up to an estimated three and a half metres out of the water, only to dive deep again, so deep that the luff of the foresail gets wet. 

Video: Salty Shower

We are glad to have such a seaworthy boat, because the spray when the boat dives tends to fly outwards due to the shape of the hull. Except for a few very high waves, when water comes over and we get showered. With salt water. 

And the closer we get to the harbour, the stronger the wind gets, permanently 45 knots now. The boat normally makes 4.8-5 knots at 1,500 rpm, which is quite good - but every time it dips into a wave trough, it slows down very hard. 

So we need seven hours for the 20 miles. And after this wild ride, the anchor drops in the harbour of Karisto - in sunshine and sudden calm.........

We have left the Peloponnese behind us: The Messenian, the Laconic, the Argolic, the Saronic Gulf. Then, after a night at anchor directly in front of one of the most prominent points in Greece, Cape Sounion on the southwest corner of Attica, we head into the Aegean. With an unfavourable north-northeast wind, we can still sail for the first two hours, but then we have to motor because the wind - once again - comes from the front and pushes us too far south. So the last eight miles under motor with a heavy rollercoaster swell. 

Then we are on the island of Kea, in the north-western bay of Livadi, with strong winds and swell. But we are well moored, with bow anchor and stern line, the pier is high, it is comfortable to get out and have a beer directly opposite in Café Captain Louis - after a long difficult anchor manoeuvre. 

Ferries also dock here - but it's not very touristy and the tourists and visitors seem to be locals, very pleasant. 

When the wind will stop coming from the north, we head north between Euboea and Attica, towards the Sporades. 

Under sails all day in light winds. This is how Walter sails into the Seventies on his round birthday. It couldn't be more beautiful. From Ermioni to Poros. Here we have champagne in the cockpit and a delicious meal at Taverna Karovolos. Lamb kleftiko, hmm …

Ermioni (east side Peloponnese) yesterday. First we are almost alone for a day at the pier on the south side of the headland. But towards yesterday evening we feel like we are in another world: one catamaran after another circles in front of the pier looking for a place. The big marinas of Athens are not that far away and flotillas are obviously not only on the way in high summer.

Rain the next day. Nevertheless, everyone is gone and the next invasion comes in the evening.